Samui’s low tides…

I read on a Samui Internet forum recently, about a group of holidaymakers who were trying to wring refunds out of their travel agent because the beach, a key attraction in their choice of hotel in North Chaweng, didn’t exist for the duration of their stay. The tide had receded some 300m behind a rocky reef leaving only a strip of sand and unappetizing puddle-filled mudflat, studded with rocks and broken coral.

It was their reported claim that the sea didn’t return from beyond the reef for over a week that got me wondering what malevolent forces could conspire to neutralize the gravitational affect of the Moon and Sun. The answer is surprisingly simple if you understand how tides are created. Depending on their positioning relative to each other, the gravitational attraction of the Moon and Sun can produce spring tides (from the verb [to jump], not the season) or neap tides. Both have an affect on the extent that tides come in or go out.
But important to the issue of the reported static low tide, the tides in the Gulf of Thailand are Diurnal. We have a single high tide and a single low tide per lunar day. This means that unlike anywhere in Europe or, in fact, most of the World, in a 24 hour period the tide will rise and fall only once instead of twice, and herein lies the answer – the high tide could have occured at night or early morning, unobserved by guests during a short holiday.
The diurnal tidal range (the difference in height between high and low waters over a full day) varies in a two-week cycle. The complainant guests probably arrived at that lunar phase which ended with a spring low tide and entered the neap tide cycle. The changing distance of the Moon from the Earth also affects tide heights.
The photo below shows the lowest that the water ever recedes opposite Baan Bophut, and why we don’t have any problem advertising ourselves as a ‘Beach’ hotel. We’ve always got plenty of it.
The sea opposite Baan Bophut snapped in mid-July, the lowest tides of the year. The reef, seen from the air is hardly noticeable from the beach. Still good swimming to the side or beyond the reef.

As an avid reader of guest opinions on Tripadvisor and other review sites, I’ve noticed that the reverse complaint is frequently made, that small beaches can ‘disappear’ during a period of very high tides. This is simply the reverse of the natural phenomenon described above.
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Beach weddings at Baan Bophut: a bit of a lottery…


Anita & Richard’s wedding, with Carter (left) a popular Samui based wedding Celebrant

With the soaring costs of weddings in UK, Europe and Australasia, tropical beach weddings on Koh Samui are becoming increasingly popular. It’s a pity that we’re losing some of our enthusiasm for hosting these events.

While we’ve hosted only five weddings to date and have another couple booked for 2009, we learned quickly that the attraction of guaranteed revenue from booking-out all our rooms to one party, usually for between three and six days, is tempered by being left with vacant rooms either side of the event. And coincidently, on each of the last three occasions, having to turn away enquiries for 14 days and more.

We seem to have less trouble filling our little hotel these days. At least half the rooms are reserved for many months in advance which reduces our ability to accept reservations for the entire hotel.

On balance, room revenue and food/wine sales, together with any commissions paid to us by other participating service providers doesn’t always compensate for the inconvenience to other guests we’ve had to molify; staff overtime, hire of additional seating, linen service and items too numerous to list that come under the general heading : organizational hassle.

An early start: The florists work their magic

Lucy has had to become very selective in deciding which bookings to accept and has declined more than she has accepted, mainly from whom she calls ‘Bridezillas’. Her decision, in the end, comes down to whom and when, and is highly subjective. Priority is given to friends and former guests, followed by smaller wedding parties, and those that can book low season dates well in advance.

Chair/table and linen hire. On this occasion, for 36 guests

Unfairly, prospective brides must also possess a hard-to-describe quality that puts them on the same wavelength as Lucy – she must be able to empathize with the bride-to-be, and it helps if they have some idea of what they want and don’t want on their special day. Given the issues I’ve described, the least successful way of securing a wedding booking at Baan Bophut is to ask from the outset “How much discount for booking all your rooms?” And the most successful way? Being her big brother.

Jane and Arash’s wedding, with Celebrant, Carter (again)

I’ve made this sound like it’s all downside for us and it’s not, of course. We love dressing-up: ourselves, our staff and the hotel to create a very special, memorable day for the bride & groom. If they can get through Lucy’s selection process, the couple and their guests are on to an absolute winner.


A typical wedding at Baan Bophut for 35-40 guests that includes three/four course meal with wine, flowers, cake, celebrant (if you don’t supply your own) fireworks, professional photographer and an open bar for, say six hours, totals about Thai Baht 175,000 (US$ 5,250, GBP 3,250 currently) at the top end. Room rent is obviously extra, as is an on-site hair and make-up stylist that costs a (very) little bit more, but most wedding parties value this convenience.

Savings can be made by limiting guest numbers, the menu choices, table wine, and free bar. But even at the top-end, our prices offer a much better deal compared to ‘Western’ wedding costs. Flight costs put some guests off, but if the wedding date can be fixed for far enough in advance, it’s possible for guests to plan their annual holiday around the event.

Apart from passing Lucy’s selection process, the weather is also a bit of a lottery. There is no time of the Koh Samui year when it can be guaranteed not to rain, and while we have no real alternative venue to the beach for a large number of gueststs, we’ve always managed so far.

Try as I may, I can’t get these random pics below to line up, other than as a long string.

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WARNING: May contain nuts…


On tropical islands and shorelines everywhere, local people call the coconut palm by a variety of names, which reflect its usefulness to these societies – Tree of Life, Tree of Abundance, Tree of Heaven. Almost every part of the coconut palm is used. It’s a source of food, drink, oil, fuel, animal feed, wood, shelter and cocktail mixer. In writing this post it’s difficult for me to know what information to include; the end-uses of this botanical miracle are so diverse, and interesting…but hey! This isn’t Wikipedia so I’ll confine this post to my usual facile skimming of the facts, as they apply locally.

As I’ve noted in a previous post, coconut cultivation and processing now takes a backseat to tourism and fishing as primary employment within the Samui population, but it must still enjoy the number two position, after tourism, in value to the local economy. Although in decline for years as plantations have been destroyed to make way for real estate developments, Samui still is home to around 2,500 different varieties of coconuts – the world’s largest diversity in one location and ships some 2 million nuts a month to Bangkok.

To many visitors the coconut palm is an enduring symbol of the tropics and for me, almost any vista worth viewing, when framed by coconut fronds is made special by their inclusion.


Just about every part of the coconut tree – trunk, fronds and fruit is useful to man, but the process starts with harvesting. Plantation workers use various devices to detach the nuts, either by hand, after climbing the tree; by means of long poles or the employment of monkeys trained to select and pick nuts from the highest trees, removing them from their tough stalks with a twisting motion. Retired monkeys don’t really get to retire on Koh Samui. Instead they continue to work performing for visitors and have become a popular and valuable tourist attraction.

The harvested nuts are stockpiled and allowed to dry out, making it easier to remove the ‘meat’ which shrinks away from the inside of the nut. The coconut meat can be grated and soaked in water to produce coconut milk, and coconut cream, the higher solids milk which quickly rises to the surface after standing for a while. Alternatively, the meat is dried in ovens or on racks above slow burning fires where it is converted to copra, from which oil is extracted.

It usually takes 12 months for a nut to mature from pollination to harvest, with husk colour the best indicator of coconut maturity. Nuts harvested at the tenth month or colour-break stage are stored or seasoned for up to a couple of months to increase copra and oil yield.

Dehusking is a manual procedure employing a sharp-pointed shard of steel positioned vertically with the point up. The nut is impaled with a strong determined downward movement. A few strokes loosen the husk, making it come off (usually) in one piece. Impaling requires accuracy and nerve.

Car insurance in Samui will almost certainly not cover coconut damage, so it’s wise to avoid parking in coconut shade. Even sitting beneath one of these fully loaded palms is foolhardy and potentially life threatening.

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And now for something fishy…


After tourism and coconut processing the fishing trade is probably the principal occupation of many Samui families, and those of the neighbouring islands and coastal villages of Surat thani’s mainland. All but driven out of the ‘Fisherman’s Village’ of Bophut by new developments, many of the smaller boats seem to have relocated conveniently adjacent to the fish market near Big Buddha.

These small boat fishermen aim to catch anything they can, usually with a casting net. We see the same technique being used daily from the beach, sometimes netting a few sardine type small fish if they are lucky. A small boat offers the opportunity for greater scope and the chance to try for bigger fish species in open water. The technique here involves a bigger net deployed as a barrier into which fish are driven by whacking the water with a paddle or the creative use of what looks like a long handled rubber toilet plunger. The intended result being to encourage the fish to flee from the disturbance in the opposite direction and hopefully, into the net.
We’ve often noted two or more boats working together to deploy bigger nets and create more disturbance in unison. In season, these small boats may carry batteries and lights at night with which to attract squid which abound in the seas around the islands. But their principal catch is the small fish which, boned and gutted, can be seen (and smelled) drying on racks in fishing villages throughout the islands.
Drying fish attract swarms of flies, as in the photo above, which render the finished product a serious health hazard if eaten uncooked. Flies have got to eat and I don’t have an issue with that. It’s their crapping and vomiting and stomping it into the fish with their six legs that puts me off. Anyway, air-dried and deep-fried, the fish, served with a spicy mango salad and now called Pla Det Diow, becomes $30 worth of fancy starter course in a high end restaurant. Lip-smackingly good and a popular menu item among those unaware of their initial preparation, or previous diners – I’ll pass thanks.

The next category of fishermen operate and often live aboard the small trawlers that land most of Samui’s seafood and are a ubiquitous site at many of the islands’ fishing harbours. Often seen huddled together inshore predicting the imminent arrival of a storm at sea
roped together for stability is a sure sign a storm is on its way
A third type of fishing boats operating in the water around Samui and neighbouring islands in huge fleets are dedicated to catching squid and the more meatier cuttlefish. These boats operate at night deploying high intensity lighting booms with which to attract the molluscs.
Although operating in large commercial fleets, squid fishing is very much a family affair withthe crew and their families living aboard. The boat can be home to as many as twenty people.
Flying in to Samui at night the squid fishing fleet make a spectacular site, with their thousands of huge bulbs forming eery chains and clusters of light and the glow is often visible, beyond the horizon from our beach in Bophut.
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Grass ‘em up?


I like this invitation from ‘Crimestoppers’, spotted on Koh Pha Ngan, our neighbouring island, to report dope growing.
It suggests that the forbidden botany will be tracked down by informers’ reports of ‘unusual traffic’ or ‘anything suspicious’. Jeez. I wish I had a $s for all the unusual traffic and suspicious goings-on I’ve seen in Thailand!
Given to bar owners or anyone else that wants one, the added value provided by the calendar is a strong incentive to display the sign for the use of customers. Assuming, of course, the bar’s patrons want to know what day it is.
Just a thought. I wonder how many of the island’s bong sellers are undercover policemen? And do they follow their customers?
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Ocean Suite Number 9 – a teasing preview


Ocean Suite, highlighted in yellow

As a consequence of slithering into operation as a hotel on the day of the 2004 tsunami, four months ahead of schedule (see previous post: It all seems a long time ago …), we somehow came to employ room 9, one of Baan Bophut’s most spacious seaview rooms, as the combined linen and store room. It started as a temporary arrangement, as many of these things do, but evolved to seemingly irreversable permanence very quickly. In the end, and using the hotel’s low season maintenance closure in May, Lucy tackled the issue. The contents of room 9 were sorted and moved to occupy the two unpopular, road facing rooms (10 & 13) on the 1st and 2nd floors. The new suite now uses much of the furniture from these former guest rooms.

It wasn’t a straightforward conversion. Since Baan Bophut’s construction, B1 Villa had opened for business next door and room 9’s veranda now faced a wall of custard coloured paint just a metre and a half away. So, builders bricked-up and integrated the former veranda seemlessly into a new double bedroom.

A door and wall were constructed to create a second room into which Lucy has opted to put two single beds. A set of secure double doors at the end of the first floor corridor now gives access to the suite and its own veranda overlooking the restaurant deck, pool and beach.
View from the Ocean Suite
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We love Orchids…





Orchids belong to the most diverse family of flowering plants known to man. There are over 28,000 species and well over 300,000 registered cultivars currently documented. The number of orchid species equals about four times the number of mammal species or more than twice the number of bird species. It also encompasses about 6–11% of all seed plants. About 800 new orchid species are added each year.

These numbers only begin to tell the true story behind the evolutionary success of modern day orchids. Orchids are the most rapidly (genetically) changing group of plants on earth and more new species have been discovered over the last few thousand years than any other plant group known.

Although orchids are commonly thought of as tropical flowers, they grow naturally in almost all climates other than deserts and glaciers. Despite their versatility, there is something distinctly exotic about orchids. They are intricately beautiful to the everyday flower lover and are considered to be some of the world’s most evolved flowers to flower specialists. Of the many orchid varieties, the Phalaenopsis (or Moth), Cymbidium, and Dendrobium orchids are the most popular types, and the Vanilla Orchid (and its vanilla bean) is the most highly produced variety.

The orchid species of lithophytes grow on rocks or very rocky soil, others grow terrestrially, but a majority of orchids are perennial epiphytes which grow anchored to trees or shrubs in the tropics.

Inspired by the epiphytes, and because they look so pretty we’ve just had about 55-60 beautiful orchid plants attached to five of our coconut palms. Chopped husk and fibre are the growing medium and trimmed coconut husks are used to hold the plants against the trunk. Symbiotic or what?

The orchids are perilously exposed to strong-salt laden winds and we really don’t know if they will survive the inevitable battering from the on-shore winds of the soon to arrive monsoon, but they’re receiving a lot of TLC from the staff and, as with all things, we live in hope.
We always have orchids in the hotel. Usually in reception and always on the tables in the restaurant.
Tik will often decorate cocktails with orchids or fruit and if he has run out at the bar it’s usually from the restaurant table decorations that he will pillage replacements. We have no intention of ‘farming’ our new orchids and will still buy-in for decoration. Tik is under strict instructions not to use the new stock for his cocktails. He will be tempted by their proximity and hopefully, their abundance.

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Here’s a plug for Mario and great gastro-tip for you…



Our favourite (non-Thai) restaurant in Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village. Mario, the owner of Alla Baia offers simple, authentic, northern Italian food, well prepared, tasty and satisfying. Everything on the menu is great value for money and doesn’t deviate from the original recipes established by his mother. And she comes for two months every year to check! Located 25m past the pier (the bar and marine structure) heading into the village, the best tables are, obviously, those overlooking the water.

My favourite winning combo is beef carpaccio followed by spaghetti Amatriciana – a tomato sauced based, smokey pancetta flavoured delight, especially with a chilli hit in the sauce. Other family favourites are the sublime ravioli with crab sauce, penne Arabiata and my newly discovered all time best pizza: tomato base; anchovies, capers, black olives and spicy salami – all on Mario’s crisply thin pizza base, with three chopped chillies and easy on the cheese.
We like (love) fresh chopped chilli and at Alla Baia they are diner-defined – just tell the waiter how many you want in your sauce or pizza or alternatively, for non at all.
The house wine is good and, for special family occasions, the glorious Amarone della Valpolicella, while not cheap, is better value than it is in Dubai – or Venice!
There’s usually a good selection of fresh fish on ice to choose from displayed out front and I can recommend the spaghetti ala vongole (clams) especially when they are at their smallest and sweetest.
I’m an unreconstructed dessert guy. On many occasions we’ve eaten Thai, usually at Pee Chet, and dived into Mario’s just for his sublime profiteroles or Mama’s tirmisu, washed down with an espresso and grappa or a liqueur – to settle the stomach.
a rare shot of the usually stellar busy Mario, relaxing at the end of service

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A thoughtful rant…


Having recently employed a new chef and staff for the long withheld evening opening of our restaurant, we will shortly start to promote ourselves locally. But as for the hotel, I don’t think we pay for any advertising at Baan Bophut, not because we’re skinflints, we spend our advertising budget on beer instead. We simply don’t know where to direct our message. Let’s face it, Samui’s no longer a backpacker destination and the droves of travelers and gap year students who at one time would avidly devour the local brochures and listing leaflets for a cheap beach bungalow are not that evident anymore. Neither are the cheap beach bungalows.

Our target market is the new and growing breed of independent traveler. They book their own airtickets and they choose their own accommodation on their computer at home or like me, the office. Universally, they shun tour operators and packaged holidays, much like ourselves. Good for them! Airtickets they find through the numerous online bucket shops and their hotel, increasingly through TripAdvisor, who now have over 100,000,000, (you read it right, a hundred million visitors) a month checking out their choices of hotel accommodation. Thankfully, they don’t all review their eventual selection.

Guest reviews can make or break a hotel. As hoteliers, we know we have a responsibility to make a guest’s stay as enjoyable as we can and exceed their expectations whenever possible. Baan Bophut is a small hotel, so we’ve a better chance than most, but big or small, guest reviews are, to stretch a couple of metaphors, a double edged Sword of …what’s his name? The Greek guy – Damocles (thanks Google).

Guest’s hotel reviews, of which TripAdvisor is the biggest repository are the best thing that could have happened to prospective hotel guests, who can now develop a better understanding of what the hotel of their choice is actually going to be like and build an expectation. If a hotel matches it or beats it, great, they get a good review. But if they fail to perform or, worryingly, fail meet the same standard enjoyed by a previous positive reviewer. Oh boy! you’re in for it now.


It was with a measure of some relief that today, I noted, Baan Bophut had slipped in its TripAdvisor ranking from 6 last week to 15. As far as I could see, because of one review that scored us 3 (out of 5) and described the hotel as having a ‘cold atmosphere’ (that’s a new one). I don’t know how TripAdvisor’s algorithm calculates the ranking, but I’m much happier at 15 than sixth, and so somewhat removed from the imminent and ever-present peril and sense of foreboding faced by those in the top ten.


An Irish guy, pleasant chap and a guest at the hotel with his miserable wife, once told me that his missus would give us a lousy review. I thought we’d looked after them well and asked why. “She always does” he replied (can’t do the accent) “It’s her time of life”. Hell’s teeth! How do you get around that one?


My advice for what its worth? Be objective and keep your expectations fairly low. That way you’re unlikely to be too disappointed, and less likely to stiff the hotel that inevitably, can’t get everything right for all of its guests, all of the time.

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Spirit Houses and just why we had to have one…


Animism or spirit worship has been widely practiced in Asia for thousands of years and in Thailand it was well established well before Buddhism first arrived over 2500 year ago. Today, spirit worship is intertwined with Buddhist belief.

A spirit house or san phra phum in Thai, provides an appealing earthly shelter for the spirits, who would otherwise reside in some celestial place. These benevolent, but sometimes mischievous spirits, protect the home or business of the owner and building occupants. A spirit house is especially appealing to the departed ancestors of those who most frequently use the building.
A typical spirit house is populated with representations of ancestors, a ceramic white haired old couple and, inexplicably, a trio of porcelain dancing girls in our case. Incense sticks and offerings of flowers, whisky and soft drinks are intended to encourage occupancy. Hard to get, bright red Fanta Cream Soda is thought to be particularly enticing.
A former Baan Bophut cook was visibly relieved when our own spirit house was inaugurated and received its formal blessing (pictured) as she claimed that her grandmother’s spirit would no longer have to come in the kitchen and distract her from her duties. We don’t mess up so much in the kitchen these days, but I don’t know if that’s because the cook left or her grandmother’s spirit found a new home. Either way: spirit houses – take your chances without one.
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