Monsoon storms force closure…

The monsoon finally hit Bophut earlier this month and with only a single long stay guest, Lucy decided to send most of the staff home and close the hotel. She used the opportunity to have guest rooms freshly painted and conduct other bits of internal maintenance work.

Strong onshore winds whipping-up the sea from the north east combined with seasonal high tides to dump a layer of beach sand on the lawn. Jonny manfully shovelled most of it back which, together with a recent three-day deluge diluted the salt sufficiently to save the grass.

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As is frequently the case during the monsoon, the pier didn’t survive the first major storm of the season and lost a goodly chunk of itself to the seas. We are so fortunate that we have a beach, even during the highest tides, against which the seas can crash. Other village beachside businesses are not so favoured, as can be seen in the photo below, and are doubtless receiving more in the way of damage than a layer of sand.

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The staff return to work this Sunday to start the big external cleanup in the run up to our Christmas and New Year peak season, when fortunately, Baan Bophut is booked out.

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New arrivals at Baan Bophut…

Despite Lucy’s promises to herself (& mum, Olwen) not to take-in another stray dog, after Blackhead disappeared, she’s adopted two! Here they’re pictured at 8 weeks old. They’re now 10 weeks, all jabbed-up and seen to by the vet, and considerably bigger. Lucy tells me they’re both gentle with an even temperament and not ‘yappers’.

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Bonzo and Foxy, different sizes, but both from the same litter, were too much to resist when Lucy learned that without a home, they would be going to Samui Dog Rescue to be put down. Personally I’m delighted the hotel now has its own dog(s) again, instead of sharing (& feeding) the neighbours’ – what’s a beach hotel without a dog?

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Escape – Relax… and get out on the water

Baan Bophut’s abiding mantra encourages prospective guests to escape and relax. And while we continue to discourage those looking for action and adventure (including ping-pong and beach volleyball), I feel bound to inform you of the hotel’s only surrender to the potential for physical activity and the opportunity to exercise.

Lucy snatches a paddle-break aboard one of Tik’s ‘Bismarcks’

Inspired by the popularity of Tik’s kayak rental business and her own burgeoning enthusiasm for developing arm and upper-body strength, Lucy acquired a couple of solo kayaks to add to his fleet.

The same Thai kayak builder also makes, what they call Tri-Yaks, to accommodate three people and other larger kayaks designed for fishing. Both are future options for fleet enlargement if there is sufficient interest from guests.

Not yet available for rental are Lucy and Jonny’s new 3.6m (11′6″) Naish Stand-up Paddle Boards .

SUP is an increasingly popular surface watersport, with Hawaiian surfing origins, that benefits paddlers with a strong core workout. Importantly for almost waveless Samui, SUP is a form a surfing that allows one to go places without any need for waves to be present.

Jonny paddles back from breakfast in Big Buddah

Adopted by an increasing number of surfer dudes who appreciate the enhanced wave-spotting potential of being able to stand-up on a stationary board. SUPing offers surfers the ability to catch more waves, as well as providing a better view of incoming waves.

Lucy’s 3.6m Naish SUP with Polynesian design and padded deck area

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This has to be Suratthani’s top destination…after Samui


While I knew of Khao Sok National Park in mainland Suratthani I didn’t know anything about the park until I started to search for a website that I could link for Suratthani attractions in the previous post.


I didn’t know it has an area of 740 km.sq, nor did I imagine it to be the oldest virgin rainforest on the planet, older and more diverse even than the Amazon rainforest.

The richness of the tropical forest flora, the abundance of fresh water and the shelter of the mountains combine to provide an excellent habitat for many species of wildlife. Mammals that call the place home include, the Malayan Tapir, Asian Elephant, Tiger, Sambar and Barking Deer, Sun Bear, Guar, Banteng, Serow, Wild Boar, Pig Tailed Macaque, Langur, Sumatra Rhino, White Handed Gibbon, Squirrel, Munjak and Mouse Deer.

The forest is dense and dominated by tall emergent trees; the middle layer is a tangle of figs and woody climbers, whilst the understorey contains evergreens such as bamboo, rattan, ferns and palms, all fighting for light. It is also home to many varieties of orchid and for flora-spotting botonistas, the park is one of only a handful of locations in Thailand and Malaysia where grows the world’s largest flower, the parasitic and stinky Rafflesia kerrii, with it’s rotten-meat stench (to attract pollinating flies) and giant 50-90cm diameter red flowers.

Twitchers are well served with over 180 species of birds. Khao Sok is just about the only place in Thailand to see both Lesser and Grey-headed Fish Eagle. The Banded Pitta is a fabulously beautiful species which appears far more common in the park than anywhere else. Hornbills can be found with Great, Helmeted and White-crowned the most frequently seen.

Divers (tech), kayakers/canoeists, fishermen, climbers and cavers all seem to be well catered for.

It appears that Khao Sok National Park is one of the easiest national parks to get to in Thailand. It’s frequently visited by tourists from the southern beach resorts and many places from Khao Lak, Krabi and Phuket run minibuses to the accommodation just outside the park. Samui based trippers must first take the ferry and bus to mainland Surattani. If you choose to drive, simply follow highway route number 401, which is also known as the Suratthani-Takuapa road. Turn right at the 109 kilometer stone and drive for another 2 km. or until you see the park’s headquarters.

From Suratthani take a minibus to Khao Sok or any bus to Takua Pa can also be taken; the buses will stop at Km 109 where people from various bungalow resorts at Khao Sok wait to collect visitors. From the main road to the accommodation is a few kilometres so it is best to take a ride with one of the bungalow operators. A visit here, from where I copied some photos, looks to be a worthy choice.

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Nok Air cuts the costs of travel to mainland Suratthani…

Photo source: Nok Air
Nok, no surprise given their livery, means ‘bird’ in Thai

From Sunday, Oct. 25, low-cost airline Nok air will start flying between Bangkok and Suratthani, Samui’s mainland province . A promotional fare of Bt555 (US 16 GBP 10) one-way or Bt1,000 return, will operate for the first three months, after which it will double, but is still expected to be around $10-$12 cheaper each way than Air Asia, that also operate the route.

Sihaphan Choomsai Na Ayutthaya, the airline’s senior vice-president for public relations, said the new air route, aimed at increasing (cash strapped) tourist traffic to Samui and Koh Phangan, will have two roundtrip flights daily. The flight from Bangkok will depart from Nok Air’s hub at Don Muang airport.

The route will be serviced by a Boeing 737-400 aircraft which can seat 168 passengers.

Suratthani Gov. Pracha Taerat said the new air route would provide tourists bound for Samui or Koh Phangan a chance to make a side trip to some of the province’s many other attractions.

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Monthly roundup…

Less than two weeks after Gary’s 40th birthday bash that featured Dirty Vegas as previously posted, sadly his Bophut Hills Gecko venue burned to the ground. Gary was briefly hospitalised with smoke inhalation, but thankfully there were no other injuries. Gecko can and will be rebuilt. The overwhelming tragedy is the loss of Gary’s tapes and digitised music representing twenty years of a life recording and DJ’ing. The fire is attributed to an electrical fault in an AC.

I forgot to follow-up on my pledge to name & shame or acclaim the contractor we used to finally sort-ot the hotel’s WiFi package. I’m delighted to recommend the services of Matthew at Bluechip Wireless who have provided broadband WiFi throughout the hotel and beach. Bluechip also upgraded our reception computer and agreed to become our on-call IT department. Good job Matthew – thanks.

And on the family front…
It’s number one daughter Lucy’s birthday today. When I called her this morning she was into a sausage roll and cup of tea at Big Joe’s and later planned lunch at Ocean’s 11 in Bangrak with Jonny. I hope she had a great day.

Self-snap: Lucy and Jonny today

It gives me huge pleasure to let those that don’t yet know – number one son Dominic finally asked his Fiona to be our future number one daughter-in-law last weekend. We could not be more delighted with his choice.

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We had two fantastic weeks in August…


After our Dubai friends Sam and Chucky put the date of their wedding at Baan Bophut back by a week, we were free to surprise the family by pitching up at my great niece Giada’s combined christening and 1st birthday bash in Italy, which had clashed with the original date.


A rather more different call to prayer than we’re used to

The celebration with Dom and Fi, my siblings and most of their partners and offspring by Lake Garda, extended to four days of outstanding food, wine and general merriment, amid great company and lovely weather, after the suffocating heat of Dubai. It was also the chance to load up with some fantastic local cheeses and salami for onward transport to Dubai and Koh Samui. We had just 26 hours at home in Dubai before taking-off again for BKK, and once again I was fortunate to be upgraded to Business class (both ways, it turned out).

The wedding at the hotel was our biggest yet, with 48 guests that had arrived from as far away as the UK, the US (actor/rapper Mos Def’s dad no less) and New Zealand, together with a large Dubai contingent. The weather was relatively kind in that it didn’t rain or, unusual for Samui weddings, have anyone worrying that it would. An onshore breeze picked-up in the afternoon to alleviate some of the affects of the heat and humidity on an otherwise clear, almost cloudless day.

This was the first time that I’d been at Baan Bophut to witness the preparations that go into the making of such a special occasion. There are a lot of moving parts to one of these event and I must say that I was so proud of Lucy and all our staff at the way they pitched-in and got things organized. The flowers were beautiful and the crisp linen on the chairs, each with a little posy of orchids on the back looked splendid.

After the ceremony, while guests headed for the bar (itself beautifully decorated), our staff wheeled-in the eight, large circular tables which they unobtrusively set for dinner, on this occasion a combined buffet and barbecue. The bride’s choice, a combo of Thai, western and vegetarian options seemed to go down well and I was pleased to receive several compliments for my fabled, twice-cooked, oven baked ribs. Unused to praising food he hasn’t cooked himself, Tik said they needed more pepper.

We met some wonderful people that we hope to stay in touch with, as well as many old friends and Sam’s brothers and sisters that we’ve known and caught up with, on and off, for many years.

Unable to focus, I put the camera away before the fireworks, fire balloons and many guests sought a form of recovery in the pool. For interested family and guests an album of my photos of the day can be found here.
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What else happened during my nine day stay…? Oh yeah, the reception computer crashed and it’s having a new motherboard fitted, along with 10 times more memory than it originally started life with. And while we were at it, arranged to upgrade our Internet connection and WiFi coverage to all rooms from an additional all-weather router on the beach bar roof. Hopefully it should all be up and running early next week. Watch this space for either praise or scorn heaped on the contractor, to follow.
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Finally, I watched some of our staff enjoy their twice monthly English lesson, on this occasion with a trainee from Island TEFL, here engaged in an observed teaching practice. Island TEFL is one of two such schools that use Baan Bophut as part of their TEFL teacher development. It’s a win-win arrangement judging by the enthusiasm of both the student teacher and our staff who, Lucy tells me, really look forward to these lessons.
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Full Moon Party… Glastonbury meets Ibiza, every month…



I’ve avoided all mention of Koh Pha Ngan’s notorious
FMP in the year since I’ve been writing this blog, simply because I’ve had no direct experience of it, nor a desire to acquire any. But I’ve seen my children, various younger relatives and innumerable hotel guests return from the event, wasted and daubed in florescent body paint, having lost their shoes or shirts or phone. I’ve heard their stories, I’ve seen their blurry photos, I’ve smelled their fetid dog-breath. I have a much better idea of what goes on than most of you reading this. I’m qualified.


What was popularized by backpacker visitors to the islands has since become a right of passage for many hedonist travelers to SE Asia and depending on the season, between 10,000 and 40,000 can attend the monthly FMP.


Koh Pha Ngan, the island silhouette visible across the bay from any of our rooms, has been hosting the FMP for over twenty years. In the late eighties it was a very different affair with small groups of dread-locked free spirits (that a decade earlier would have been called hippies), a guitar or two, cassette-player and a bonfire on Haad Rin beach. The ninety’s saw the FMP grow and commercialize and in the past decade the introduction of professional, often international, DJs.

The event is a major, perhaps the principal source of income for Haad Rin’s commercial community who, in recent years have attempted to exploit the concept with Black Moon and Half Moon parties for those sybarites that missed the boat (sorry).

The event kicks-off shortly after dusk, as the moon rises. Small tables are set out on the beach before the dance action starts and it gets too crowded for safety for a chance to watch the fire-twirlers and jugglers.


Drinks of choice are beer or buckets – vodka or Sangsom, a Thai rum, with Coke or Red Bull. After a couple of these, and in the swing of it, it’s probably time for a bit of luminous body paint.

So adorned and sufficiently anesthetized, next, a wander up the beach to get one’s brain fried by the wall of competing sound. Don’t get me wrong. I like drinking, partying, beaches and being around young people. For me the awfulness of the FMP is the thought of the 15 or so competing sound stages belting out psy-trance, techno, hip-hop, drum/bass and house (whatever they all are) simultaneously. Each bar determined to be the loudest. Beaches in general offer very little in the way of acoustic properties, so the sound systems consist of large powerful walls of speakers which throw sound out towards the beach dancers, and fill me with horror as I imagine the cacophony.

The party ends, theoretically, with sunrise. But so many partygoers are still left on the beach awaiting a speedboat back to Samui the following morning, without a pair of sunglasses between them, a torpid, squinty-eyed version can still continue.


Party schedules for 2009 – 2010, tips, important do’s and don’ts, ferry or speedboat details and much more information can be found here and here.
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I used to be a bit of a cheerleader for TripAdvisor…


I still believe their repository of guest reviews the best thing that could have happened to independent travelers who can choose their accommodation and build an expectation based on the experience of previous guests. But I was disappointed when TripAdvisor localised Baan Bophut’s ranking and irritated when they didn’t answer my mails asking for an explanation. What possible benefit could an organization dedicated (I thought) to serving independent travelers gain from pushing us into a mashed-up backwater ranking? A little research revealed the answer to this artless fool.

TripAdvisor is now owned by and is little more than a marketing tool for the World’s biggest online travel agency and our previous placing among the top end of Koh Samui’s hotel ranking is now, with few exceptions, mainly populated by Expedia Inc’s affiliate hotels.

TripAdvisor no longer make the claim to be independent – with good reason

It seems inevitable that our target guests, independent travelers that book their own flights and accommodation, will progressively surrender to the ease of simply clicking on TA’s ‘Check Rates!’ button, rather than hunt-out a hotel’s site and book for themselves.

Expedia Inc’s stranglehold on user generated feedback increased last year with TA’s acquisition of Virtual Tourist

So, what to do? Do we maintain our independence and accept that Baan Bophut’s former prominence (and occupancy) will continue to diminish over time? Or do we join them; consent to pay Expedia’s commission rate to restore our standing in their rankings and keep our little hotel in business?

Unlike TripAdvisor and many others in the travel industry, we’re not ready to sacrifice our independence just yet.
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Put your money where your mouth is…Samui dentists


Writing about the flossing monkeys of Lopburi and brief reference to my own dental hygiene, are a reminder that for me, my family and many of our hotel guests, a holiday in Koh Samui is not complete without a visit to the dentist.


Thai dentists are renowned as being some of the best in the World, with Bangkok increasingly celebrated as a full service destination for medical/dental tourism. I was astounded to learn that in 2006 1.32 million ‘patient tourists’ paid for an exotic Asian holiday with the saving on medical or dental treatments. In the same year, 1.2 million foreigners sought treatment in Thailand, with quality of care and cost cited as the principle reasons for their choice of destination.
Back to Samui and dentists: so uniformly good are the dentists and reasonable their prices that we’ve actually had our own medical tourists stay at Baan Bophut. Two guests, over the past two years, have vacationed in Samui just to receive extensive dental treatment locally at a fraction of the European cost. We may well have had more, but the two mentioned made no secret of why they chose Samui.

Samui’s four major international hospitals each have dental departments, but there are numerous other excellent dental clinics to choose from, usually at lower cost. All conduct restorative or general dentistry from a basic inspection, clean and polish, routine fillings, extractions and root canal work, but several specialise in much more complex oral issues, including a broad spectrum of cosmetic treatments for the vain. I note that laser whitening is on offer at several dentists locally for around Bt 8000 (US$ 220), but this may come down as the recession bites (sorry).

Lucy, the memsahib, me and other family members each have our favourite dentist. My own first choice, Dr Tee at Dental Design, just 5 minutes from the hotel, is a gentle and considerate practitioner that I’ve used for years. Olwen’s favourite is a lady dentist who’s clinic is even closer to the hotel. Lucy, I think, favours yet another.

Here’s a list of the hospitals that have dental departments and this, an incomplete listing of independent clinics, just those that have advertised in the Koh Samui Directory – there are many more.

Visitors can make their own appointments and prospective hotel guests can ask Mia on reception to book for them. Mia will also arrange for Pee Moo, the hotel’s maintenance man/taxi driver to take you and pick you up when the clinic calls to say you’re done.
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